Sony Playstation (PS1) with MM3 8wire stealth modchip, dual PAL/NTSC oscillators and clean C-Sync. Boot burned CD-R/import games region-free! NOW WITH PSIO FLASH CARTRIDGE

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Description

NOW SELLING WITH PSIO INSTALLED! Simply select it in the drop-down menu above this text. The PSIO lets you boot games from SD card using a cartridge that plugs into the back of the console. (CDs will still work aswell)

Boot CD-R or original japanese/american/euro games region-free (8wire MultiMode3 modchip installed)! RGB CSYNC modded for high quality output to HDTVs/upscalers (Csync replaces Composite Video and Luma, so Composite Video and S-Video will no longer work). Dual oscillators for precise PAL/NTSC timings (50Hz vsync for PAL, ~59.82-59.96hz for NTSC). Laser assembly professionally re-calibrated to optimize CD read speeds (even CD drives that are on their last leg can usually be restored. If not, I replace the drive entirely).

Play all your childhood games in the highest possible quality. My consoles function better than they did when they were manufactured! I, Leah Rowe, am deeply passionate about retro games and I want to bring you the best possible quality. See below for more specific technical information.

Full documentation is included with each console, so that you can get in-game immediately.

Here you can see a video of exactly how I do all these mods:

Here is another video I did which shows how I install the optional PSIO module:

Each console comes with 1 power cable, 1 RGB SCART cable, 1 dual-shock controller, 1 memory card and all orders come with a 2 year warranty as standard. After I’m done with each system, I estimate that it will last at least another 5 years of normal use.

NOTE: Internal power supply is a linear one, designed for 240V 50Hz mains electricity. USA and Japan (and a few others) use 120v 60hz. If you are in one of these countries, you can replace the internal PSU very easily. Simply purchase one on ebay (etc), remove the bottom screws from the console, lift up the upper casing and remove the PSU via the 2 screws near the power jack, then install the new one

Mod info

  • MultiMode3 stealth modchip installed. Full 8-wire installation. This allows games burned to CD-R to boot (cdromance.com is a good website for downloading games). It also allows original copies of imported games to boot. The modchip also enables you to write software for the PS1 and run it on real hardware!
  • 53.2MHz crystal clock for PAL (pin 192 on GPU is the clock input). 53.69mhz crystal clock for NTSC (pin 196 on GPU). Crystals are 3.3v and the output is a 220ohm load. This results in perfect vsync timings on every game, making compatibility 100% both with games and all TVs/upscalers. This also makes the console perfect for speedrunners who need precise accuracy. Without this modification, PAL playstations will run NTSC games about 1% too slow, and NTSC playstations will run PAL games 1% too fast.
  • Optional: I can replace the main power LED
  • Clean Composite Sync (CSYNC) is wired up to CVBS/Luma on the AV multi-out. This disabled composite video and svideo but results in superior picture quality on RGBS output (for SCART connections). This is done primarily for HDTVs and upscalers which are much more sensitive to interference/noise than the old CRT TVs were. Pin 156 of the 208-pin GPU is TTL CSYNC. This is shaped into a 75ohm load via 470ohm resistor and 220uF capacitor in series. Capacitors for Composite video and Luma are removed and the CSYNC cap is connected *only* to the negative side of the landing pads for the relevant capacitor connection. The trace leading to pin 5 (luma) on the multi-out is cut, and pins 5+6 are bridged (pin 6 is Composite Video by default. In this config, it is Composite Sync). This setup makes the PS1 still work perfectly with existing RGB SCART cables, whether CSYNC is derived from CVBS or Luma

Optional mods

RGBHV is only for professional users who know what they’re doing and know that they definitely need it! Most people will want to stick to the default RGBS output as described above which is compatible with consumer-grade TVs/upscalers that take RGB SCART

I have tested RGBHV on an OSSC and it works perfectly for progressive 240p but interlaced video modes have issues with it. In practise, I only recommend RGBHV for PVM CRT monitors that take RGBHV as input. You can get VGA/SCART to BNC breakout cable adapters online.

  • RGBHV (DO NOT ask me to do this unless you are sure you have equipment compatible with it!). The PS1 GPU has separated vsync and hsync outputs on pins 158 and 159 of the GPU. AV Multi-out 5V and Composite Video lines are cut. The vsync and hsync on the GPU are TTL level like CSYNC, so the same 470ohm+220uF circuit is used separately on both. Hsync is connected to the CVBS pin on multi-out and Vsync is connected to the 5V pin (5V to the multi-out is cut so no longer provides 5V). An RGB SCART cable is then modified; the scart side is cut off and the cable is re-wired to create a custom VGA cable with a breakout 3.5mm stereo jack for audio

NOTE: This is NOT a real VGA line. It is still a 15kHz signal (VGA is 31kHz). When I say “VGA” I’m actually just referring to a DSUB-15 connector. The line itself is not VGA compatible.

NOTE: RGBHV will *break* most other PS1 output methods (RF, CVBS, RGBS). HOWEVER, Svideo will still work. If you still wish to use RGBS after this, it is quite easy: csync is basically an Xor of hsync and vsync and there are circuits that can generate csync quite easily (and 5V can be derived from a linear PSU + 5V LM7805 voltage regulator, or even just a USB power cable)

NOTE: RGsB is still possible in this setup. This is where green and sync are mixed into a single channel. Then you can use a component cable (but send RGsB through it). RGsB is Sync On Green. OSSC supports this type of video channel. Please tell me if you want Sync on Green because it’s not present on PS1s unless added. This is done by bridging green+sync with a suitably sized resistor on the csync line. BUT the sync signal being mixed in is unfiltered (no capacitor, just the resistor) and then the combined green+sync channel is filtered via 220uF cap. The resistor on the csync line is for shaping is to an approximate 75ohm load

RGBHV is useful for high-end PVM CRT displays which are much higher quality than consumer grade CRT TVs. The *reason* SVideo Chroma+luma is retained is so that csync is still possible to derive (for light-gun games like Point Blank or Time Crisis). If you wish to use light-gun games on a PVM via RGBHV I can provide a break-out RCA jack on the console which outputs the Luma channel containing Sync (or I can simply wire up standard CSync or even just Composite Video).

NOTE: Some PVMs can take Csync. If yours only hakes separate h/v sync you can split csync into separate hsync and vsync; look up online for circuits that can do this as I don’t provide them myself.

With RGBHV on shielded cabling and pure csync on a breakout RCA jack you can easily have a very arcade-level experience when playing light-gun games on a high-quality PVM.

Additional information

Do you want the PSIO? (boot games from SD CARD)

Buy WITHOUT the PSIO kit, Buy WITH the PSIO kit

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